Coastal path of encounters

This year, I had lots of ideas for how to spend my vacation: a language trip, a long-distance trip—or the Camino del Norte. I couldn’t decide for a long time. But then I received a WhatsApp message that finally led me to the Camino.

Cindy, my roommate from the Peru and Bolivia trip, was in Paris on the first weekend of my vacation. If I walked the Camino del Norte and traveled by train, I would have to change trains in Paris anyway. So the decision was made.

Six years ago, we spent three intense weeks together. During this time, we not only experienced a lot, but also learned a lot about ourselves, our desires, and our dreams and together we tested our physical limits, for example, during the climb up Rainbow Mountain.

So now we were reunited after so many years. And it was as if we had never lost touch. We spent almost the entire six or seven hours in Paris chatting, laughing, and enjoying each other’s company. We also visited Montmartre, Sacré-Cœur, Place de la Concorde, and the Eiffel Tower.

Today was my first real day of hiking. At just under 16 km and 500 meters of elevation gain, it was a challenge for me. But it was worth it. A wonderful view over the coastline. And there were plenty of encounters too. Right at the start of the first climb, I met Sabrina, who now lives in Palermo but is originally from Indianapolis and of course knows Greenwood—it’s a small world.

What’s more, the cows you walk among here look somehow different from the ones back home. And my apple was also eyed with great interest.

Now enjoy the view!

We continue on to San Sebastian, but first we have to cross the river at Pasai Donibane.

My companions today? Two ladies from the USA who come to Europe every year to hike for three weeks. The first time was in 1995!

First, you climb many stairs to reach today’s highest point, the Faro de la Plata. The route then leads slowly downhill through the forest of Monte Ulia. After catching your first glimpse of the bay of San Sebastian, the trail continues steeply downhill to the coast.

And here’s a little impression of San Sebastian. The city has a great atmosphere. So far, I’ve only been able to enjoy the beach because I’ve had a bad cold, but I’ll be back at the end of my trip!

I’m glad to be able to hike again today. Even though I deliberately planned only a very short stage, as my cold hasn’t completely gone yet.

In Orio, I set off in light fog, but the sun is already visible. So the fog will surely clear soon. The route climbs gently through vineyards producing Txakoli white wine. At the Grand Camping Zarautz campsite, I look for the background along the coast, not the Way of St. James, as this is supposed to be much more beautiful.

And now you need a little imagination, because you can hear the waves breaking and the sea roaring, but all you can see is a wall of fog to the right of the path.

After my third encounter today, with a couple from Berlin with whom I share the picnic area overlooking the fog, I continue on to Zarautz, and slowly the fog begins to lift.

Until you can finally see to the other end of the bay.

Today was a day of many small encounters. It started this morning right in front of my vacation apartment. Suddenly, a dog came running towards me, barking. I just managed to get behind the door, which he then continued to growl at.

Fortunately, all the other encounters were much more pleasant. With a glance back, I leave Zarautz and head along the coastal path to Getaria.

I reach Getaria without any elevation gain, but then there are some steep climbs up to the Iglesia de San Martin in Askizu. The trail passes through vineyards and offers great views again and again!

I had already met a Frenchman on the coastal road, whom I now meet again here. After a coffee in Getaria, he feels better and tells me that he is on his way to visit his daughter in Bilbao.

From the church, the trail descends to Zumaia, the end of my hike today. Every now and then, I catch a glimpse of the town. In Zumaia, I meet a Dutchman who spontaneously decides to walk part of the way, two ladies from South Dakota, USA, who are the first to tell me that they want to walk the entire route, and finally a Swedish woman at the train station on her way to Bilbao.

Once I arrive in Bilbao, I first take a look around the old town in the light drizzle.

With one last look at Bilbao’s soccer stadium—which I’ve learned is the most important cathedral—we continue on to Getxo today, following the Rio de Bilbao.

Unfortunately, the weather isn’t quite so good this morning, so the sun has to come from within. Shortly after Bilbao, I meet Rosanna, an Italian woman who is on the Camino for the first time. Since her destination is Portugalete, directly opposite Getxo, we walk today’s stage together.

We have a wonderful conversation about the reasons why we are on the Camino de Santiago, what each of us does, and finally have lunch together in Getxo before each of us goes our separate ways again.

The Puente Colgante leads from Getxo to Portugalete. It was designed by a student of Gustave Eiffel, Ferdinand Joseph Arnodin, and Alberto Palacio. The towers are 61 meters high and the bridge is 160 meters long. At a height of 40 meters, you float above the Rio Bilbao. The bridge is one of the few suspension bridges still in operation today. It has been modernized several times, so that even cars can now use it.

In the afternoon, I explore the harbor and beach of Getxo.

At my accommodation, I meet Romald. He is a 70-year-old Polish man who is on his seventh Camino. And he walks the entire route in 62 days. Respect!

The stage from Getxo to La Arena begins in Portugalete with a very pleasant surprise. Although the road is very steep right at the start, there are conveyor belts almost all the way, which is very helpful. This allows me to reach the top comfortably using a total of five conveyor belts.

During a forced stop under the bridge, I meet several local joggers who are also sheltering from the downpour. I also get a tip on where I can dry off after the rain: at the local bar, which is only a few meters away from the Camino.

After that, I continue on through beautiful landscapes.

Until I reach the coast again. La Arena is my last stop for today. Now I just need to take the bus to Puerto, where I have a room for tonight. I’m sitting here enjoying the sun and getting to know two ladies from the USA and a Dutchman who are also done for the day.

When it stops raining, I’ll send you some pictures of Puerto :-)

With a glance back at La Arena, I set off towards Castro Urdiales, which will take me two days, as I have decided to take the route through the countryside.

And well, what can I say, he was right. Neither the road up into the countryside nor the road back down to the coast offer any scenic views. In fact, there’s nothing but trees. So here’s another picture of the coast.

Back on the coast, I have time today to visit Castro Urdiales. It’s a lovely little town situated in a beautiful bay.

From Castro Uridiales, the route passes the natural swimming pool and heads into the countryside.

The route goes uphill and downhill until just before Islares, where it returns to the coast, offering beautiful views.

As I wait for the bus to Laredo in El Pontarrón de Guriezo, I meet the first pilgrims of the day. Several of them are also planning to continue by bus. Among them are two young women from northern Germany who are spending their second vacation on the Camino del Norte and have just set off again.

With a view of Sanotoña, tomorrow’s first stop, and the sunset from the hotel’s roof terrace, I say good night for today.

Since we all have to take the ferry from Laredo to Santoña, I will probably meet most of the others today since starting my journey.

Together, we will cross the Punta del Brusco pass.

The rather arduous path, which according to the travel guide requires sure-footedness, is well worth the effort.

Why do they always mention sure-footedness and not a head for heights?

Here is the view back towards Santoña.

The view on the other side shows Noja in the background, as well as the long beach walk that follows.

On the walk, I chat with two Australian women who are walking the entire route. After a rather modest year for both of them, they decided to take a three-month break and are spending it on the Camino.

In Noja Bay, our paths separate, as they are continuing a little further and I am staying here for today to enjoy the beach a little longer.

As luck would have it, today is Oktoberfest and the vintage VW meet in Noja.

From Noja, we head inland towards Gümes.

Here is the church of Castillo.

Today, we travel up and down through beautiful landscapes. I meet two couples from the USA and Sweden whom I have seen several times before. Today, we have the same destination and chat along the way, as well as in the restaurant in Gümes.

When I arrive at the hotel, I am standing on the balcony hanging up laundry when the two women from Australia come walking down the path. We chat briefly and agree to meet up at the bar.

But now I want to do something I very rarely do. Even though all the accommodations I’ve stayed in so far have been good, I’d like to mention this one in particular. I’ve never been welcomed anywhere as warmly as here, and the room and living room are designed with great attention to detail, so if you’re coming to Gümes, look for the Hotel Rural El Angel de la Guarda.

What follows is probably one of the most beautiful stages. With the sea always on your right, you walk along beautiful coastal paths past bays and rocky coastlines to Somo.

Each of us enjoys this route at our own pace and the group breaks up for the time being.

Until we all meet again on the ferry from Somo to Santander. In Santander, I say goodbye to most of the group, who are now either heading home or continuing their journey. The two women from Australia have decided to stay in Santander a little longer, like me. We go for a leisurely lunch, which turns into an evening meal.

Two full days in Santander. A long walk along the coast of Santander. Partially with obstacles, as you have to make a short detour via the La Magdalena peninsula.

I find Santander to be a very Spanish city, as you don’t hear many other languages spoken here.

Other than that, I’m enjoying a well-deserved massage and the beach.

I take the bus back to San Sebastian, where I have a day and a half left before heading back home. On the bus from Bilbao, I meet up again with a German couple I got to know on the last leg from Gümes to Santander. We have a lively conversation and the journey flies by. Once in San Sebastian, I treat myself to half a day at the beach in beautiful weather and even get to enjoy the water.

During a guided tour of the city, I learn a lot about the history of San Sebastian, from piracy and privateering to the whale oil trade and its rise as a royal summer residence.

San Sebastian is truly a city to stroll around and enjoy.